The Upside Down Well

Since this was our last night in Venezia, we wanted to commemorate it with a glass of wine sitting along the lagoon-side promenade.

Our sunset walk along Riva degli Schiavoni, Venice's exciting waterfront promenade

A member of the Carabiniere helping out some confused tourists


Could you ask for a better post?

After toasting ourselves, the city, the trip, and anything else that came to mind, we took a long walk down to the public garden at the tail end of town in the district called Castello. Turning onto the uncommonly wide (for Venice) Viale Garibaldi where the majority of locals carry on their daily lives, we blended in with the crowds enjoying the evening passeggiata before turning back towards the lagoon.

A beautiful sunset-bathed building along Riva degli Schiavoni

Just in time for the sunset, we paused and watched the rosy-pink globe sink below the horizon, silhouetting the points of the distant skyline and bathing the sky in an orange glow. A woman with a two-story view leaned out her window to catch the spectacle. What a show!

A gorgeous Venetian sunset

Traversing the Castello district in search of a recommended restaurant, we found the address, but the restaurant was no longer there. There was a trattoria nearby and we decided to try it — the name intrigued us: Osteria Al Pozzo Roverso. And it looked very inviting.

The waiter was very friendly and chatted not only with us but with a couple at the next table, who seemed very familiar with this trattoria. We watched in awe as the man sampled wine after wine, followed by an assortment of after-dinner digestivi. Amazingly, he exhibited no effects whatsoever from the copious amount of alcohol he downed.

Curious about the restaurant’s name, I asked the waiter what roverso meant; I already knew that al pozzo means at the well. Roverso means upside down, he told me, then explained that the trattoria was named after an upside down well in the restaurant’s inner courtyard. When I asked to see it, he laughed. The well was long gone, now existing only in name and ancient memory.

It was late and time to get back to our own neighborhood. A quick tour through Piazza San Marco took us for a last listen to the orchestras and then back to Albergo Doni to pack for departure in the morning.

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