Early in the morning, gray skies greeted our first look out the window, but a few distant streaks of blue over the sea gave us hope. Not wanting to squander a single minute of rainless sky, we hurried down to the piazza for a cappuccino and cornetto. Where to first? I wanted to hike up to the cemetery (of course!) at the top of the hill overlooking the town.
Past the train station, the walk leads alongside a stream dotted with ducks, then crosses over the water and starts up the hill, a sign pointing the way to the cemetery. A slight drizzle wet the way until, halfway up, we had to hover under the broad reach of a tree to protect ourselves from a downpour. It finally lightened up and we resumed our tromp upwards.
From across the small valley, we spied a trenino and its driver traversing the grape-garnished slopes, loaded with crates of the harvested fruit. The tiny train’s plastic bucket seat was empty — the driver stood rather than sat, talking on a cell phone as he fearlessly chugged along vertical terraces teetering high above the sea.