This would be our final evening in Todi since we would be leaving early the next morning. Our day’s visit to Montefalco and Bevagna had been wonderful, but we were looking forward to returning to our home base.
As we rumbled along the quiet backroad, Todi appeared on a distant hill. We pulled over to admire it from below.
Back at our B&B, Gino and I were preparing for our last whirl through town. Careful to step softly so as not to disturb our grumpy neighbor below, we quietly descended the steps leading to outside. Just as we reached the bottom, our toothless friend flung open her door. It was as if she had been waiting for us to pass by. I braced myself for another lecture, but instead of a delivering another admonishment, she greeted me with a smile and yanked me inside her house to show me around.
Beaming, she pointed out a capon roasting on a spit over her fireplace, explaining that her children had brought the bird for her to cook for dinner. It was a scene from the 1800’s.
The smell of the capon slowly roasting over the fire was divine and I desperately wanted to take a picture to capture the image, if not the aroma. But I didn’t want to take the chance of further offending her now that we were apparently no longer on her bad side, so I didn’t. Maneuvering me firmly by the arm, she pulled me further into her house to show off her doll collection and lacey bedrooms. I admired them appropriately and thanked her for showing everything to me. Maybe she was feeling guilty for the tongue-lashing she had delivered the day before.
Back on the streets, we dashed up and down, drinking in as many sights as we could before the fading light stole them away.
Ristorante Jacopone da Peppino was the choice for our last dinner here. Fabrizio had recommended it to us for its fabulous pasta and it was everything he had described.